April 21, 2022

Accelerated Stability testing of wax containing cosmetics with Rheolaser CRYSTAL

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With current changes in consumer behavior, cosmetic products must fulfil ethical and ecological standards in the same way as quality and stability requirements. This pushes toward reformulation and development of new formulas within cosmetic industry, that are often related to long validation process.

In particular, the development of semi-solid and solid cosmetics with a high amount of waxes (creams, lipstick, ointments) may be challenging. The use of waxes involves specific temperatures, precise perparation method, and excellent control of cooling ramp to obtain stable emulsions and homogeneous mixtures. Moreover, stability of such products needs longer evaluation periods, resulting in longer time to market.
Rheolaser Crystal enables thermal profiling method for semi solid formulations that allows chemists to optimize preparation method and the formula and to rapidly evaluate the stability.

1. Comparing raw materials and selecting the right one – knowing the exact melting point of pure and mixed waxes improve the formulation, avoid production problems and accelerate development.

2. Evaluate the stability at each step of the development – Thermal cycling allows to do accelerate stability tests of highly stable and solid cosmetic products to choose only the right form3. Optimize the formulation for upscaling – a validated lab formulation may face problems during upscaling. Especially in the case of waxes the cooling ramps have a significant impact on crystallization behavior and of the end-product properties. ulations.

Benefits using Rheolaser CRYSTAL:
• Reduce cost and time using, whereas performance and stability are improved, due to highly sensitive Diffusing Wave Spectroscopy (DWS) method.
• Determine thermal profiles with characteristic peaks for phase transitions (crystallization, melting, glass transitions) in a temperature range of 4°C to 90°C.
• Apply thermal cylces to evaluate stability of very stable samples.
• Study representative sample volumes.

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